| ENTIRE DIGITALLY RESTORED LEAFLET IN .pdf FORMAT AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE |
 |
Author's Note
I would like to suggest that you read very carefully the general directions before starting any one of these sweaters. Please note the size and style changes which can be made from every pattern. Many size changes are possible with just a change in type of yarn and size of needles.
In selecting color combinations, be sure to choose colors which are intense enough to give the amount of contrast necessary to show the design up well.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS
Except for the ribbing and the front bands on the cardigan sweaters, these sweaters are worked in the stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row). On the diagrams, each square marked with an x or o means a stitch of the color which the symbol represents. On the knit rows, follow the diagram from right to left; on the purl rows, from left to right. To have the patterns match correctly, it is necessary to follow the diagrams exactly for increases and decreases. The length of the back, front, and sleeve can be changed by adding or subtracting an even number of rows just after the ribbing. When directions are given in inches and do not show the exact number of rows, count rows so that corresponding pieces will be exactly alike. Be sure to note the exact number of stitches that are bound off for shoulders as the stitches may vary for each decrease. Always slip the first stitch when binding off for decreases.
Neck decreases are made as follows: at the beginning of a row, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over knit; at the end of a row, knit to within 3 stitches of the end, knit 2 together, knit 1.
When directions give a measurement from "beginning of work," the ribbing is included.
GAUGE
Always determine the gauge of your knitting. To do this, work a small piece in the stockinette stitch using size needles and yarn given for garment you are to make, and compare it with the gauge given for each sweater. If you knit tightly, use a size larger needle; and if loosely, a size smaller needle. To determine the exact size a sweater will be, divide the number of stitches at the widest part of the pattern by the number of stitches per inch. This will give a measurement in inches.
WORKING WITH TWO OR MORE COLORS
To start a new color, do not tie on yarn, but leave an end about 5 inches long at the back of the work. These ends are fastened on the wrong side with a sewing needle and can be done when the work is finished. Always carry along loosely the yarn not being used by twisting it every 4th stitch around the yarn being used. This prevents large loops of yarn on the wrong side. The most important point in obtaining good results when knitting with more than one color is to carry the yarn loosely. Break the yarn only when through using that color. Some times tying on a second ball of the design color saves carrying the yarn from one side to the other when there is a large plain space in between. If one anticipates at which end of the work a color will next be used, much unnecessary carrying of the yarn can be avoided. If the design colors are rolled in balls so that the yarn comes from the inside, the yarns will not get tangled. Bobbins for this purpose can also be used.
CASTING ON AND BINDING OFF
If a larger needle is used for binding off the neckband and casting on for the sleeve, neither the neck nor wrist openings will be too tight.
ASSEMBLING SWEATERS
After all loose ends have been fastened on the wrong side, block each piece separately by pinning it face down on an ironing board with common pins, covering with a damp cloth, and pressing lightly with a moderately hot iron until the work is smooth. Then place right sides together and sew shoulder seams together with a running backstitch. Use a single strand of yarn for all sewing. Next, pick up stitches around the neck and knit in the neckband. Sew in the sleeves with the backstitch and press the seams with a damp cloth from the right side. Then sew the underarm and sleeve seams with an overhand stitch. Be sure to match patterns exactly when sewing seams and not take in too much of the knitting for the seams. Finally, press all seams flat from the right side using a damp cloth, and block the completely assembled sweater once more. Sew buttons on front band of cardigan sweaters. A piece of grosgrain ribbon may be sewed on the under sides of front bands if desired.
SIZE AND STYLE CHANGES
Because these patterns are planned stitch by stitch, when size changes are desired, it is better to change the size of the needles and/or the type of yarn than to add or subtract stitches. Any of these sweaters can be made smaller by using a size smaller needle, and larger, by using a size larger needle with the type of yarn given. They can also be made smaller with finer yarn, and larger, with heavier yarn. When making changes, follow the pattern as to rows and stitches, not inches, the waist and cuff ribbings being of lengths proportionate to the rest of the sweater. When directions are given in inches only, change them proportionately also. When making any size changes, check your own gauge to determine the exact size which will result.
Pullover sweaters can easily be made from all cardigans by repeating the back, changing it only for the neck opening as shown. Sweaters can also be made with short sleeves if desired.
The buttonholes can be made on either side of the front on cardigans: the right front for girls and left front for boys.
Knitting Patterns
With size 2 needles and the main color, cast on 80 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 2 inches. Change to size 3 needles and knit the first row shown on the diagram, increasing to 85 stitches on this row (increase about every 13th stitch). Continue to follow the diagram in the stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row), but omit the design and neck shaping.
Decreases at the underarm are made by binding off the number of stitches shown. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. For the shoulders, start on the indicated row and bind off at the beginning of 6 consecutive rows the number of stitches shown, placing the remaining 29 stitches on a stitch holder for the neckband. (More)
With size 2 needles and the main color, cast on 76 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 2 inches. Change to size 3 needles and knit across the next row, increasing to 79 stitches (increase about every 19th stitch). Purl back, then work in stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until work measures 9 ½ inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row. Start underarm decreases as shown on the diagram on the next row by binding off the number of stitches shown. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. Continue following the diagram for the design. (More)
With size 3 needles and the main color, cast on 64 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 1 ¾ inches. Change to size 5 needles and knit the first row shown on the diagram, increasing to 67 stitches (increase about every 17th stitch). Purl back, then continue following the diagram in the stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row). Decreases for the underarm are made by binding off the number of stitches shown. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. For the shoulders, start on the indicated row and bind off at the beginning of 6 consecutive rows the number of stitches shown, placing the remaining 21 stitches on a stitch holder for the neckband. (More)
With size 2 needles and the main color, cast on 88 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 2 inches. Change to size 3 needles and knit across the next row, increasing to 93 stitches (increase about every 15th stitch). Purl back, then continue stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until work measures 10 ½ inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row. Bind off 6 stitches at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows for the underarm, then bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of each of the next 6 rows. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. (More)
With size 3 needles and the main color, cast on 68 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 2 inches. Change to size 5 needles and knit across the next row, increasing to 71 stitches (increase about every 18th stitch). Purl back, then work in stock¬inette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until work measures 10 ½ inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row. Bind off 4 stitches at the begin¬ning of each of the next 2 rows for the underarm, then bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of each of the next 6 rows. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. (More)
With size 2 needles and the contrasting color, cast on 88 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 2 ¼ inches. Change to size 3 needles and knit across the next row, increasing to 93 stitches (increase every 15th stitch). Change to the main color, purl back, then work in the stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until work measures 9 ¼ inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row. The design is started on the next row with the contrasting color. The solid line on the diagram indicates change to brown for background color. Follow the diagram, making the decreases for the underarms by binding off the number of stitches shown. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. (More)
With size 2 needles and the main color, cast on 88 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 2 ¼ inches. Change to size 3 needles and knit across the next row, increasing to 91 stitches (increase about every 22nd stitch). Purl back, then work in the stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until work measures 11 inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row. Bind off 6 stitches at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows for the underarm, then bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of each of the next 6 rows. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. (More)
With size 3 needles and the main color, cast on 80 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 2 ½ inches. Change to size 5 needles and knit the first row shown on the diagram, increasing to 83 stitches on this row (increase about every 20th stitch). Continue to follow the diagram in the stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row), but disregard the design. Decreases at the underarm are made by binding off the number of stitches shown. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. For the shoulders, start on the indicated row and bind off at the beginning of 6 consecutive rows the number of stitches shown, placing the remaining 27 stitches on a stitch holder for the neckband. (More)
With size 2 needles and the main color, cast on 100 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 2 ¼ inches. Change to size 3 needles and knit across the next row, increasing to 103 stitches (increase about every 25th stitch). Purl back, then work in the stockinette stitch until work measures 12 inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row. Start underarm decrease as shown on the diagram on the next row, by binding off the number of stitches shown. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. (More)
With size 2 needles and the main color, cast on 100 stitches. Work in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 2 ½ inches. Change to size 3 needles and knit across the next row, increasing to 103 stitches (increase about every 25th stitch). Purl back, then work in stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until work measures 13 inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row. Start underarm decreases as shown on the diagram on the next row by binding off the number of stitches shown. Always slip the first stitch when binding off. The solid line on the diagram indicates the change to white for the background color. (More)
Wild West
Volume 10
Nomis
No Copyright Published
Wild West Sweaters for young cowboys and cowgirls. Knitting instructions for ten cardigans and slip-ons for ages 4 to 12.