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Simplified multi-color knitting with color charts. Stitch sequences numbered. Each row knitted across and purled back in the same colors.

Knit right and left socks, if you wish. Sock sizes 10 to 13. This pattern also suitable for working into a sweater or dress design. Knit in your own choice of colors.

IMPORTANT

Knit across and purl back each row before starting next row. Use size NUMBER ONE needles. Knitting tension should be tight enough to produce about 10 stitches per inch. If you do not obtain this gauge, then change to larger or smaller needles as your particular knitting tension requires. The size needle does not matter as long as the stitch gauge attained is correct. Note: 10 stitches per inch means 'as knit', without allowance for blocking. Socks then block to about 9 stitches per inch on usual size dryers, and will cling snugly to the average size leg when worn. For a very small size leg (such as 7 inches around above ankle) you may wish to knit to a tighter tension gauge than mentioned above, using the smallest possible needles. Use your own choice of yarn colors.

Note:
1. Rows Nos. 18 & 29 have stitches which are purled back in a different color to form finer detail in the design. These stitches are indicated by the squares which are divided in half and colored accordingly. Full directions under "PURL BACK VARIATIONS."
2. In choosing yarn, be sure colors selected are in good contrast to show the design in sharp detail. For a special effect knit the bubbles (as shown yellow) in Angora yarn. The French 100% Angora is recommended since it is the fuzziest.

DIRECTIONS

(It is preferable that the knitter be familiar with basic knitting instructions pertaining to plain socks. However, directions herein are complete, including recommended methods for heel and toe, which place sewed seams at side of foot to insure wearing comfort. Free detailed instructions on how to knit, purl, etc., should be obtainable from your yarn shop.)

MATERIALS—(Note: Different brands of yarn vary in yardage. The following yarn quantities, per pair of socks, are approximate only.) 3 oz. basic color green, 5 yds. champagne color, 4 yds. yellow. Socks illustrated are 7 inches long above top of heel, including 2 inches of ribbing. If longer socks are desired, add ribbing. Use size No. 1 sock needles, double pointed, and regular 3-ply sock yarn.

IMPORTANT—Use needles and yarn in these accurate sizes in order to achieve proper size sock per this pattern. Knitting tension should produce an average gauge of about 10 stitches per inch. Note: It is well to carry your yarn in small quantities of each color, on bobbins which dangle clear of your work, avoiding entanglement. Thus for the first few rows you will need one bobbin of green and 2 bobbins of yellow (one for each series of bubbles). These single yellow stitches do not interrupt the color groups which can be accommodated by a single bobbin. Simply carry the green yarn across the interrupting yellow stitch (on wrong side of work). Similarly carry the green across the single stitches forming the stems of the glasses. Do not try to carry the green across more than 3 stitches of another color without twisting the yarn being carried with the yarn being worked. Otherwise an undesirable loop is formed. It will be better to use 3 bobbins of green beginning at row #18 where the lips of the glasses begin interrupting the solid color of the background. A total of 7 bobbins is thus required—3 green, 2 champagne color, 2 yellow.

LEG PATTERN—This part of the sock is knitted in a flat piece, eventually to be folded and sewed together up the back. First cast on 72 stitches of green and knit 2, purl 2, for ribbing for 2 inches. Knit first row as shown in graph, that is 18 green, 1 yellow, 34 green, 1 yellow, 18 green. These numbers are indicated on the graph to save counting squares. In changing colors always twist yarns around each other once to avoid leaving a hole. Now turn and purl back ON THE SAME ROW, using the same colors in the same places. Now knit row No. 2 in the indicated color sequence … 15 green, etc … and purl back as before. Continue thus for 36 rows, after which work separates into instep and heel. (Note special instructions for rows 18 and 29 which follow).

PURL BACK VARIATIONS—you will note that on rows 18 and 29 certain stitches, as shown by squares, are divided in half and colored accordingly, to form finer detail in the design. This means you do NOT purl back these stitches in the same colors they are knit, but use the new color as indicated. Thus for row #18, knit 12 green, then 13 green, 22 green, 13 green, 12 green (in other words 72 green solid across). Purl back 12 green, 13 yellow, 22 green, 13 yellow, 12 green. Similarly on row #29, 2 stitches at the base of the stem of the glass are knit across in green, but purled back in champagne color. These variations apply on these 2 rows only, otherwise each row is purled back in the same colors in which it is knit.

INSTEP—After completing 36 rows, divide the 72 stitches, taking 18 off each end, place on separate needles or stitch holders to work later (will be the heel.) Now continue pattern down the instep of the sock using only the 36 center stitches. First row is 5 green, 1 yellow … etc. Continue for 8 rows to end of pattern. Now discontinue work on this part of sock and knit the heel.

HEEL (Reinforced type)—Using the 36 stitches on the heel needle, slip 1, knit 1, in sequence for the first row, then purl back. Continue thus in successive rows for 2 inches. On the last purl row, purl 20 stitches, then purl 2 together, purl 1 and turn work. Then:
Knit back 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 7, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.
Knit back 8, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.
Purl back 9, … etc.
Knit back 10, … etc.
… etc.
Continue in this manner, advancing the number of stitches worked at each end in this order, and thus making rounded bottom of heel, until all stitches are used, work then being all on one needle across bottom of heel. Now pick up stitches along the forward edges of the heel thus knitted, and add to the work in progress. About 21 or 22 stitches should be picked up on each side of the 2-inch long heel, and all of these heel stitches should be evenly divided on 2 needles. Now proceed to knit a row, purl a row, alternately, and decrease 1 stitch on each side of the foot ON EACH KNIT ROW ONLY, to form ankle gusset. When work evens up with instep pattern previously completed, join all work together on 3 needles, keeping the 36 instep stitches on the one needle, other stitches evenly divided on the 2 underfoot needles. Now continue with plain knitting round and round, and also continue to decrease the one stitch on each side of the foot ON EVERY OTHER ROW (on underfoot needles) until only 18 stitches remain on each underfoot needle. Then continue without decreasing until 2½ inches from desired length of foot.

TOE (This may be one of the other colors if you wish, as shown in picture.) Now start decreasing to shape toe, as follows: Decrease 4 stitches on the next row, these being the end stitches on the instep needle, and the stitches next to these, one on each underfoot needle. Knit 4 rows plain then 1 row decreasing 4 stitches as before, 3 rows plain, 1 decreasing, 3 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 2 plain, 1 dec., 1 plain, 1 dec., then decrease every row until only 16 stitches remain (8 on instep needle and 4 on each underfoot needle.) Weave toe as follows: Place yarn in a tapestry needle and, with yarn coming from back of knitting needle, put it in first stitch of front (instep) needle as if to knit and slip it off. Then put it in the next stitch of front needle as if to purl and leave it on. Go to back (underfoot) needle and insert as if to purl and take it off, then to next stitch of back needle as if to knit and leave it on. This designation may assist:
Front needle K—off, P—on
Back needle P—off, K—on
Repeat thus to the end of the 8 stitches on each needle.

FINISH—Sew sock up the back, using corresponding color of yarn and tapestry needle. Finish inside of sock by weaving any thread ends into nearby seams, trimming ends, etc. Block socks on dryers of proper size.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

Each square equals one stitch, knitted and/or purled. Sequences of stitches in particular colors to form a pattern are shown in color and by numbers on the specific pattern graphs. This saves counting squares. The number of row and number of stitches in each, depend on the symmetry of the pattern design, also on the approximate size of sock desired in order to fit the wearer's leg. Size and dimensions are indicated in each particular pattern.

Each row is normally knitted and purled back in the same colors. For certain patterns which are easily repeated, the knitter may, in purling back, go to the next row. In this case the indicated pattern will be reduced in size by one-half, and the entire pattern must then be repeated in order to achieve the length indicated.

Heel, bottom of foot, and toe are knitted in the manner of plain socks. In certain patterns where the instep is a plain color, and the same color as the foot, this part of the sock may be knitted round and round as in plain socks.